Visiting Old Nisa: A Guide to Turkmenistan's UNESCO Site

Nestled just outside Turkmenistan's capital, Ashgabat, lies Old Nisa, a fascinating archaeological site that whispers tales of a powerful ancient empire. Recognized by UNESCO for its outstanding universal value, this former capital of the Parthian Empire offers a profound journey into a civilization that once rivaled Rome.

Discovering Old Nisa: A Glimpse into Parthian Grandeur

Old Nisa, or Parthaunisa, served as one of the earliest capitals of the Parthian Empire, a major Iranian political and cultural power in ancient Iran and Mesopotamia. Founded in the 3rd century BCE, the site is divided into two main parts:Old Nisa(Mithradatkert), a royal fortress and temple complex, andNew Nisa(Shahr-i Nisa), a fortified city that housed the general populace.

The Parthian Empire, which flourished from approximately 247 BCE to 224 CE, was strategically located on the Silk Road, controlling vital trade routes between the Roman Empire and China. Nisa, as its early seat of power, played a crucial role in shaping Parthian identity, art, and administration. Its ruins today are a testament to a sophisticated culture that blended Hellenistic and Central Asian influences.

UNESCO inscribed Old Nisa as a World Heritage Site in 2007, recognizing it as an outstanding example of the early Parthian urban development and architecture, which testifies to the interaction of cultural traditions.

The Historical Significance

Old Nisa's historical importance cannot be overstated. It was here that the Arsacids, the ruling dynasty of the Parthian Empire, established their power base. The site is particularly associated with Mithradates I (c. 171–138 BC), who transformed the Parthian state into a major empire. Excavations have revealed rich architectural remains, including temples, palatial buildings, and fortifications, all built with distinctive mud-brick and fired brick techniques.

Among the most significant archaeological finds at Old Nisa are the Nisa ostraca, thousands of small pottery fragments inscribed with Aramaic script, providing invaluable insights into the daily life, administration, and economy of the Parthian period. Even more renowned are the exquisite ivory rhytons (drinking horns) adorned with Hellenistic scenes, showcasing the blend of Western and Eastern artistic traditions prevalent in Parthian art. These artifacts are now housed in the National Museum of Turkmenistan in Ashgabat.

The site's decline began with earthquakes and was ultimately sealed by the rise of the Sasanian Empire, which overthrew the Parthians in the 3rd century CE, leading to Nisa's abandonment and eventual ruin.

Exploring the Ruins: What to See

A visit to Old Nisa is an immersive experience that requires a bit of imagination to reconstruct its former glory. The vast complex is largely composed of earthen mounds and brick foundations, but with a knowledgeable guide, the layout of the ancient city begins to unfold.

Old Nisa (Mithradatkert)

This is the fortified royal residence and sacred complex, situated on a natural hill. Key features include:

• The Square Hall:Believed to be a royal treasury or a reception hall, it features impressive mud-brick walls and evidence of intricate plasterwork.
• The Round Hall:A unique circular building with a domed roof, its purpose remains debated but suggests a ritualistic or ceremonial function.
• Temple-Treasury Building:Where many of the famous ivory rhytons were discovered, indicating its importance for storing valuable items and possibly for religious ceremonies.
• Royal Palace Remains:Foundations of what would have been the residential quarters for the Parthian elite.

Walking through these ancient structures, you can almost hear the echoes of Parthian royalty and feel the weight of history underfoot. The panoramic views from the site, encompassing the surrounding plains and distant mountains, add to the sense of timelessness.

New Nisa (Shahr-i Nisa)

While less excavated and preserved than Old Nisa, New Nisa represents the larger, inhabited city. Its extensive fortifications and traces of residential areas offer a glimpse into the broader urban life of the Parthian period. Most visitors focus on Old Nisa due to its more prominent archaeological remains.

Planning Your Visit to Old Nisa

Visiting Old Nisa is typically a half-day excursion from Ashgabat. Here’s how to make the most of your trip:

Getting There

Old Nisa is located approximately 18 kilometers (11 miles) west of Ashgabat. The easiest way to reach the site is by private car or as part of an organized tour. Taxis are also an option, but arranging a return trip or having the driver wait is advisable.

Best Time to Visit

The ideal times to visit Turkmenistan, and by extension Old Nisa, are during the spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October). The weather during these months is pleasant, with mild temperatures perfect for exploring outdoor sites. Summers can be extremely hot, while winters can be chilly.

Essential Tips for Visitors

1. Tour Guide:Hiring a knowledgeable local guide is highly recommended. They can bring the ruins to life with historical context, stories, and explanations of the archaeological significance of each section.
2. Sun Protection:The site is largely exposed, so bring a hat, sunglasses, and high-SPF sunscreen, regardless of the season.
3. Hydration:Carry plenty of water, especially during warmer months. There are no facilities to purchase drinks on site.
4. Comfortable Footwear:The terrain can be uneven, so wear sturdy, comfortable walking shoes.
5. Photography:Photography is generally permitted, but always be respectful and ask your guide if there are any specific restrictions.
6. Respect the Site:Old Nisa is a fragile historical treasure. Avoid climbing on the ruins, do not disturb any artifacts, and ensure you leave no trace behind.

Beyond Old Nisa: Exploring Turkmenistan's Rich Heritage

While Old Nisa offers a profound journey into ancient empires, Turkmenistan boasts other fascinating historical and natural wonders. For those interested in further delving into the country's past, consider a visit to Ancient Merv State Historical and Cultural Park, another UNESCO World Heritage Site that was once a major oasis-city on the Silk Road, or the ancient city of Köneürgench with its impressive mausoleums and minarets. Near Ashgabat, don't miss the impressive Türkmenbaşy Ruhy Metjidi Gypjak Mosque, a striking example of modern Turkmen architecture.

For a stark contrast to the historical ruins, experience the otherworldly spectacle of the Darvaza Gas Crater, often called the "Door to Hell," or marvel at the dramatic geological formations of Yangykala Canyon. Turkmenistan truly offers a diverse range of experiences for the intrepid traveler.

Conclusion

Old Nisa stands as a powerful reminder of Turkmenistan's profound and often overlooked history. It is a place where the grandeur of the Parthian Empire can still be felt amidst the weathered ruins, offering a unique window into a pivotal period of Central Asian history. A visit to this UNESCO site is not just a tour of ancient stones; it's an opportunity to connect with a civilization that shaped the ancient world, making it an essential stop on any Turkmenistan itinerary.

Embark on your journey to Old Nisa and uncover the secrets of a forgotten empire.