The Rich History of San Felipe: Panama City's Old Quarter
Nestled on a peninsula overlooking the Pacific Ocean, San Felipe, more commonly known as Casco Viejo, is the historic heart of Panama City. This UNESCO World Heritage site offers a captivating journey through centuries of Panamanian history, blending colonial charm with a vibrant modern renaissance. It's a place where every cobblestone street and ornate balcony tells a story of pirates, independence, and architectural evolution.
A Phoenix Rises: From Ruin to Renaissance
The story of San Felipe begins in the ashes of its predecessor. In 1671, the original Panama City (Panamá Viejo), founded in 1519, was sacked and burned by the infamous English buccaneer Henry Morgan. Two years later, in 1673, the city was officially relocated to a more defensible peninsula, marking the birth of what we now call Casco Viejo. This new settlement was strategically chosen for its natural harbor and a protective wall system, designed to repel future attacks.
For centuries, Casco Viejo thrived as a bustling colonial port, witnessing the ebb and flow of trade, power, and culture. However, by the 20th century, much of its grandeur had faded. The district fell into disrepair, becoming largely overlooked as modern Panama City expanded. Its narrow streets and decaying mansions held a forgotten beauty, often overshadowed by the gleaming skyscrapers just a few kilometers away.
The turning point arrived in 1997 when UNESCO declared Casco Viejo a World Heritage site. This designation catalyzed a remarkable revitalization effort. Decades of neglect began to recede, replaced by careful restoration projects, boutique hotels, trendy restaurants, and art galleries. Today, Casco Viejo is a living museum, a testament to Panama's resilience, where history seamlessly intertwines with contemporary life, drawing visitors from across the globe.
Architectural Tapestry: A Walk Through Time
One of the most compelling aspects of San Felipe is its diverse architectural landscape. Walking through its streets is like stepping into an open-air museum, showcasing a fascinating blend of styles that reflect its complex history:
- Spanish Colonial:The oldest buildings feature classic Spanish colonial elements, characterized by sturdy stone foundations, wrought-iron balconies, and inner courtyards.
- French Republican:Influences from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, particularly during the French attempts to build the Panama Canal, brought elegant French Neoclassical facades, grand staircases, and intricate detailing.
- Art Deco:Scattered throughout are examples of Art Deco, a style popular in the early 20th century, with its distinctive geometric patterns and streamlined forms.
This eclectic mix creates a visually rich environment, where brightly painted buildings stand alongside crumbling facades awaiting restoration, offering a poignant reminder of the district's journey.
Key Historical Landmarks and Their Stories
San Felipe is dotted with significant landmarks, each with its own story to tell:
Plaza de la Independencia (Plaza Mayor)
This central square, once known as Plaza Mayor, is the historical heart of Casco Viejo. It was here, in 1903, that Panama declared its independence from Colombia. Surrounded by important buildings, it remains a bustling hub where locals and tourists gather, often serenaded by street musicians.
Metropolitan Cathedral (Catedral Basílica Santa María la Antigua)
Dominating the Plaza de la Independencia, the Metropolitan Cathedral is an architectural marvel. Its twin towers, inlaid with mother-of-pearl from the Pearl Islands, are a striking sight. Construction began in 1688 and wasn't completed until 1796, making it one of the oldest and largest churches in Central America. Its grand interior reflects centuries of worship and history.
Church of San José (Iglesia San José) and the Golden Altar
One of Casco Viejo's most legendary sites is the Church of San José, famous for its magnificent Golden Altar (Altar de Oro). Legend has it that the original altar, made of solid gold, was cleverly painted black by Jesuit priests to hide it from Henry Morgan's pirates during the 1671 sacking of Panamá Viejo. After the city's relocation, the altar was transported piece by piece to its current location. Whether fully gold or gilded, its intricate Baroque design is breathtaking and a testament to clever preservation.
Fun Fact:The legend of the Golden Altar is a beloved tale in Panama, highlighting the ingenuity and determination of the early settlers to protect their treasures from marauding pirates.
Church of San Francisco de Asís
Though largely rebuilt after fires in the 18th and 20th centuries, the Church of San Francisco de Asís maintains its historical significance. Located on its own pleasant square, Plaza de San Francisco, it’s a beautiful example of the district's enduring religious heritage.
National Theatre (Teatro Nacional)
Inaugurated in 1908, the National Theatre is an exquisite example of Neoclassical architecture. Its lavish interior, adorned with frescoes by Panamanian artist Roberto Lewis, provides a stunning venue for performing arts. It stands as a symbol of Panama's cultural ambitions in the early 20th century.
Palacio de las Garzas (Presidential Palace)
Known as the "Palace of the Herons," this elegant building serves as the official residence and office of the President of Panama. Its name comes from the resident white herons (garzas) that freely roam the inner courtyard, a tradition started in 1922. While not always open to the public, its distinctive architecture and waterfront location make it a prominent landmark.
Plaza de Francia (French Plaza) and Las Bóvedas
Perched on the southern tip of the peninsula, Plaza de Francia is a tribute to the French engineers and workers who began the monumental task of building the Panama Canal. An obelisk crowned with a rooster (symbolizing France) and busts of famous French figures adorn the plaza. Below the plaza are "Las Bóvedas" (The Vaults), former dungeons that now house art galleries, artisan shops, and restaurants. The plaza offers panoramic views of the modern Panama City skyline, the Pacific Ocean, and the iconic Bridge of the Americas in the distance.
Adjacent to the French Plaza is the picturesque Paseo Esteban Huertas, a charming walkway lined with vibrant bougainvillea, offering splendid views and a relaxed atmosphere, perfect for a leisurely stroll.
San Felipe Today: Beyond History
While its history is profound, San Felipe is far from being a static museum. Today, it buzzes with a dynamic energy, making it one of Panama City's most engaging neighborhoods. Visitors can spend days exploring its narrow streets, discovering hidden courtyards, and indulging in its diverse offerings:
- Gastronomy:From high-end international cuisine to traditional Panamanian eateries and lively street food stalls, the culinary scene is exceptional.
- Culture and Arts:Art galleries, craft shops, and live music venues showcase local talent and a burgeoning creative scene.
- Nightlife:As the sun sets, Casco Viejo transforms. Rooftop bars offer stunning views, while vibrant clubs and cozy pubs provide entertainment late into the night.
Practical Tips for Visitors
- Explore on Foot:The best way to experience Casco Viejo is by walking. Wear comfortable shoes, as the cobblestone streets can be uneven.
- Day vs. Night:The district has a different charm during the day and night. Plan to visit during both to fully appreciate its atmosphere.
- Safety:While significantly improved, it’s always wise to stay aware of your surroundings, especially at night. Stick to well-lit, populated areas.
- Respect Local Life:Remember that Casco Viejo is not just a tourist attraction; it's a living community where people reside and work.
The rich history of San Felipe, Panama City's Old Quarter, is a narrative of destruction, resilience, and rebirth. It stands as a vibrant testament to Panama's enduring spirit, inviting every visitor to walk through its storied past and embrace its lively present.