Stari Bar: Exploring Montenegro's Abandoned Medieval City
Nestled high above the modern town of Bar, the ancient city of Stari Bar stands as a captivating testament to Montenegro's rich and tumultuous past. This atmospheric archaeological site, often referred to as an "abandoned medieval city," offers visitors a unique journey through centuries of history, culture, and conflict, all set against a backdrop of stunning natural beauty.
A Glimpse into History: What is Stari Bar?
Stari Bar, meaning "Old Bar," is an ancient fortified settlement perched on a rocky cliff, approximately 4 km inland from the Adriatic coast. Unlike many preserved medieval towns, Stari Bar was largely abandoned after a devastating earthquake in 1878 and the subsequent withdrawal of Ottoman forces, leaving behind a hauntingly beautiful collection of ruins. Today, it serves as one of Montenegro's most significant cultural monuments, offering an open-air museum experience where history literally surrounds you.
The Enduring Legacy of an Ancient Crossroads
For over two millennia, Stari Bar was a vibrant hub, strategically positioned at the crossroads of various civilizations. Its history is a complex tapestry woven with threads of Roman, Byzantine, Serbian, Venetian, and Ottoman influences. Each empire left its indelible mark, contributing to the unique architectural and cultural mosaic that defines the site today. Exploring its crumbling walls and overgrown streets feels like stepping back in time, revealing layers of human endeavor and resilience.
A Journey Through Time: The History of Stari Bar
The origins of Stari Bar trace back to Illyrian times, with the Romans later establishing a settlement. Under Byzantine rule, it became a significant administrative and ecclesiastical center. Throughout the medieval period, it changed hands numerous times, reflecting the region's volatile geopolitical landscape.
- Roman and Byzantine Era:Early fortifications and the establishment of an archbishopric.
- Serbian Rule:Incorporated into various Serbian states, experiencing periods of cultural flourishing.
- Venetian Dominion:From the 15th century, the Venetians strengthened its defenses, leaving behind distinctive architectural elements.
- Ottoman Conquest:In 1571, the Ottomans captured Bar, ruling for over 300 years. They introduced mosques, hammams, and a distinctive Oriental character to the city.
- The Great Abandonment:Following the Montenegrin liberation in 1878 and a catastrophic earthquake the same year, the city's aqueduct was destroyed, making life within its walls unsustainable. The inhabitants gradually moved closer to the coast, establishing what is now modern Bar, and Stari Bar slowly fell into disrepair and abandonment.
Did You Know?The iconic aqueduct of Stari Bar, a magnificent feat of engineering, was built by the Ottomans in the 17th century to supply the city with fresh water. Its destruction by the 1878 earthquake was a primary reason for the city's abandonment.
Exploring the Ruins: What to See and Do
A visit to Stari Bar is an immersive experience. Allow at least 2-3 hours to wander through the extensive site, climb its towers, and soak in the atmosphere.
Architectural Highlights and Key Structures
- City Walls and Gates:Begin your exploration by walking along the impressive defensive walls, which offer stunning views of the surrounding mountains and the Adriatic Sea. The main gate, rebuilt multiple times, provides the entry point to the inner city.
- Churches:Discover the remains of several Christian churches, including the Romanesque Church of St. Catherine, the Church of St. Veneranda, and the Church of St. Nicholas, showcasing different architectural styles and periods.
- Mosques and Ottoman Structures:Explore the ruins of Sultan Ahmet's Mosque, a testament to the Ottoman presence, along with a hammam (Turkish bath) and other administrative buildings.
- Clock Tower:Though partially ruined, the clock tower still stands as a prominent landmark within the city.
- Archaeological Museum:Housed within the former customs building at the entrance, this small museum displays artifacts unearthed from the site, offering context to the history you're about to explore.
- Panoramic Views:Climb to the highest points within the city for breathtaking vistas stretching from Lake Skadar in the north to the shimmering Adriatic coastline.
Beyond the City Walls: The Olive Tree of Mirovica
Just a short drive or walk from Stari Bar lies the "Old Olive Tree of Mirovica," believed to be over 2,240 years old, making it one of the oldest olive trees in the world. This natural monument is still fruitful and is a revered symbol of longevity and peace in Montenegro. It's a wonderful stop before or after your exploration of the ancient city.
Planning Your Visit: Practical Information
To make the most of your trip to Stari Bar, consider these practical tips.
Getting There
Stari Bar is easily accessible from various points in Montenegro:
- From Bar:The modern town of Bar is just 4 km away. You can take a local bus, taxi, or even enjoy a pleasant walk uphill.
- From Coastal Towns:It's a convenient day trip from popular coastal destinations like Budva,Sveti Stefan, or even the Bay of Kotor. Public buses or rental cars are the best options.
- From Podgorica:The capital city is about an hour's drive away.
Best Time to Visit
Spring (April-May)andAutumn (September-October)offer the most pleasant weather for exploring, with mild temperatures and fewer crowds. Summer (June-August) can be very hot, so an early morning or late afternoon visit is recommended to avoid the midday sun.
What to Bring
- Comfortable Shoes:The site involves walking over uneven terrain, ancient stones, and some uphill climbs.
- Water:Stay hydrated, especially during warmer months.
- Sun Protection:Hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen are advisable as there's limited shade within the ruins.
- Camera:The site is incredibly photogenic.
Duration of Visit
Allocate at least 2 to 3 hours to fully explore the ruins, including the museum. If you plan to visit the Old Olive Tree, add extra time.
Beyond Stari Bar: Exploring the Region
While Stari Bar is a highlight, the surrounding area offers much more to discover:
- New Bar:The modern town of Bar is a port city with a lovely promenade, beaches, and a relaxed atmosphere.
- Local Cuisine:Enjoy traditional Montenegrin dishes in the restaurants just outside the old city walls. Don't miss trying local olive oil, for which the region is famous.
- Lake Skadar National Park:Europe's largest bird reserve and a stunning natural wonder, perfect for boat trips, birdwatching, and enjoying traditional villages.
- Coastal Exploration:Continue your journey along the Montenegrin coast, visiting charming towns like Ulcinj further south or returning north towards Petrovac and Budva.
Why Visit Stari Bar?
Stari Bar offers a truly distinct experience compared to other historical sites in Montenegro. It's not a perfectly preserved museum but a raw, authentic glimpse into the past. The sense of discovery as you navigate its ancient streets, imagining life within its walls centuries ago, is unparalleled. It's a place where history speaks through silence, where nature reclaims what man built, and where every crumbling stone tells a story. For history enthusiasts, photographers, and anyone seeking an off-the-beaten-path cultural adventure, Stari Bar is an essential stop on your Montenegrin itinerary.
Whether you're drawn by the echoes of ancient civilizations, the dramatic architecture, or the panoramic views, Stari Bar promises an unforgettable encounter with Montenegro's soul. It's a powerful reminder of time's passage and the enduring spirit of a land shaped by countless hands.