Day Trip to Keren: Exploring Markets and Historical Sites
Embark on a captivating day trip from Asmara to Keren, Eritrea's second-largest city, a vibrant hub nestled amidst the highlands. This journey offers a unique blend of bustling markets, poignant historical sites, and a true glimpse into Eritrean culture and daily life.
Why Keren Deserves a Spot on Your Itinerary
Keren, meaning "highland" in the Tigre language, is a city steeped in history, particularly its role in World War II. Beyond its historical significance, Keren thrives as a commercial center, renowned for its diverse markets that draw traders and visitors from across the region. It provides a fascinating contrast to the art deco elegance of Asmara, offering a more rustic and traditional Eritrean experience.
Getting There: Your Journey to Keren
The journey to Keren is an adventure in itself, typically taking around two to three hours from Asmara, depending on your mode of transport. The most common options include:
- Minibus (Public Transport):A cost-effective and authentic way to travel, minibuses depart frequently from Asmara's main bus terminal. It’s a great way to observe local interactions and enjoy the scenic route.
- Private Car/Taxi:For more comfort and flexibility, hiring a private car or taxi is advisable. This allows for stops along the way to truly appreciate the landscape.
The road itself is a spectacle, winding through dramatic mountain passes and verdant valleys. You'll witness stunning vistas, traditional villages, and perhaps even catch glimpses of local wildlife. Parts of the route may even take you through or near the lush landscapes of Fil Fil, renowned for its baboon population and dense vegetation, adding another layer to your scenic journey.
Exploring Keren's Vibrant Markets
Keren’s markets are the pulsing heart of the city, a kaleidoscope of sights, sounds, and smells. They are best experienced on Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays when activity peaks.
Keren's Main Market
The main market is a sprawling outdoor bazaar where locals gather to buy and sell everything imaginable. Here, you'll find:
- Fresh Produce:Piles of colorful fruits, vegetables, and aromatic spices.
- Textiles and Crafts:Handwoven baskets, traditional clothing, and intricate jewelry.
- Household Goods:From pottery to tools, offering a glimpse into daily Eritrean life.
Engage with friendly vendors, observe the lively bartering, and soak in the authentic atmosphere. It's a fantastic place to find unique souvenirs and experience the local culture firsthand.
The Camel Market
Perhaps Keren's most famous attraction is its weekly camel market, primarily held on Mondays. This incredible spectacle draws pastoralists from surrounding regions to trade camels, goats, and other livestock. It's a sensory overload in the best possible way:
- Witness hundreds of camels being paraded and inspected.
- Hear the guttural calls of the animals and the animated discussions of traders.
- Observe the age-old traditions of livestock trading, a vital part of the regional economy.
This market is a photographer's dream, but always remember to ask for permission before taking close-up shots of people.
Fun Fact:Keren's strategic location made it a crucial battleground during the East African Campaign of World War II. The Battle of Keren in 1941 was one of the most significant and fiercely fought battles in the region.
Historical and Cultural Landmarks
Beyond its bustling markets, Keren boasts several sites that tell tales of its rich and often turbulent past.
Tukul/Old Railway Station
A poignant reminder of Eritrea's colonial past, the Tukul (a circular traditional hut) serves as the old railway station. Though the railway line to Keren is no longer operational, the station's architecture and abandoned tracks evoke a sense of nostalgia for a bygone era. It offers a glimpse into the once-ambitious Italian railway network that connected various parts of Eritrea.
Mariam Da'arit
A truly unique religious site, Mariam Da'arit is a shrine dedicated to the Virgin Mary, built inside the massive hollow trunk of an ancient baobab tree. This revered site is a place of pilgrimage for both Christians and Muslims, symbolizing the peaceful coexistence of faiths in Eritrea. The cool, quiet interior of the tree provides a serene escape from the heat and bustle of the city.
St. Anthony Church
Perched on a hill overlooking Keren, St. Anthony Church offers not only a place of worship but also panoramic views of the city and its surroundings. Its distinct architecture and historical significance make it a noteworthy stop. The peaceful ambiance provides a moment for reflection.
The British and Italian War Cemeteries
Keren’s role in World War II is profoundly felt at these solemn sites. The British Commonwealth War Cemetery and the Italian War Cemetery are meticulously maintained, bearing witness to the heavy toll of the Battle of Keren. Visiting these cemeteries offers a chance to pay respects to the fallen soldiers and reflect on the human cost of conflict. They are powerful reminders of the city's strategic importance during the war.
Savoring Local Flavors
A trip to Keren wouldn't be complete without sampling some local Eritrean cuisine. Look for small eateries serving traditional dishes likeinjera(a spongy flatbread) with various stews (tsebhi), often made with beef, chicken, or lentils. Don't forget to try the local coffee, brewed and served in a traditional ceremony, offering a rich and aromatic experience.
Practical Tips for Your Keren Day Trip
- Best Time to Visit:As mentioned, market days (Monday, Thursday, Saturday) are the most vibrant. Early morning is ideal for the camel market.
- What to Wear:Comfortable walking shoes are a must. Dress modestly, especially when visiting religious sites, covering shoulders and knees.
- Photography Etiquette:Always ask for permission before photographing people, especially at the markets. Be respectful and discreet.
- Currency:The local currency is the Nakfa. It's advisable to carry smaller denominations for market purchases.
- Language:Tigrinya and Arabic are widely spoken. A few basic phrases in Tigrinya can go a long way in connecting with locals.
Beyond Keren: Other Eritrean Adventures
While Keren offers a profound day trip experience, Eritrea holds many more wonders. After returning to Asmara, consider exploring its captivating architecture, including the impressive Cathedral Our Lady of the Rosary and the unique Tank Graveyard. For those seeking ancient history, a journey to the archaeological site of Quahaito reveals remnants of a pre-Aksumite civilization. And for an entirely different kind of adventure, the pristine waters and diverse marine life of the Dahlak Archipelago beckon, offering unparalleled diving and snorkeling opportunities.
Conclusion
A day trip to Keren is an essential experience for any visitor to Eritrea. It offers an authentic encounter with the country's rich history, vibrant culture, and the everyday lives of its people. From the unforgettable camel market to the serene baobab shrine, Keren promises a day of discovery and indelible memories, making it a highlight of your Eritrean adventure.