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Published on March 11, 2026

Désert des Agriates: Exploring Corsica's Wild Coast

Nestled in the northwest of Corsica, the Désert des Agriates is a captivating expanse of wild, untamed beauty. Far from a true desert, this protected natural site offers a rugged landscape of fragrant maquis, rocky hills, and some of the island's most pristine, secluded beaches, accessible only to those willing to venture off the beaten path.

What is the Désert des Agriates?

The Désert des Agriates, despite its name, is not a barren, sandy desert but rather a vast, arid wilderness covering approximately 15,000 hectares between Saint-Florent and the Ostriconi Valley. Historically, this area was rich agricultural land, grazed by shepherds and cultivated with olives and cereals. Over time, as populations shifted to coastal towns, the land reverted to its wild state, dominated by dense, aromatic maquis shrubland, cork oak forests, and spectacular rock formations.

This remarkable landscape is characterized by its stark beauty, a dramatic contrast between sun-baked earth and the intense turquoise of the Mediterranean Sea. Its coastline stretches for over 35 kilometers, dotted with hidden coves and famous white-sand beaches, making it a unique ecological and scenic treasure. The entire area is now part of the Conservatoire du Littoral, ensuring its protection from development and preserving its raw, natural charm for future generations.

Accessing Corsica's Wild Heart

Part of the Agriates' allure is its relative inaccessibility, which helps preserve its pristine nature. There are primarily three ways to reach its stunning interior and coastline, each offering a distinct adventure.

By 4x4 Track: The Adventurous Route

For those seeking an exhilarating journey, a rough track stretches from the D81 road near Casta, winding its way through the heart of the Agriates towards its most celebrated beaches. This unpaved, often rocky and challenging track is strictly for 4x4 vehicles. Standard cars are not recommended, and often not permitted by rental agreements. Several local companies offer organized 4x4 excursions, providing a knowledgeable guide and a safe way to experience the rugged terrain.

Travel Tip:If driving your own 4x4, ensure your vehicle is suitable and carry spare water, a first-aid kit, and a fully charged phone. Cell service can be spotty in some areas.

By Boat: The Scenic Approach

The most popular and often easiest way to reach the famous beaches like Saleccia and Lotu is by boat. Regular shuttle services depart from the port of Saint-Florent during the high season. These "navettes" offer a comfortable and scenic ride, dropping passengers directly onto the white sands. Private boat charters and water taxis are also available, offering more flexibility and the chance to explore lesser-known coves along the coast.

This method allows visitors to bypass the challenging inland track and enjoy breathtaking views of the Corsican coastline from the sea, perhaps catching glimpses of the dramatic cliffs similar to those found near the Calanques de Piana or the protected waters of the Scandola Nature Reserve further south.

By Hiking: The Immersive Trek

For dedicated walkers, the Désert des Agriates can be explored on foot via the Sentier des Douaniers (Customs Officers' Path). This coastal trail offers a long-distance trekking experience, winding along the rugged shoreline from Saint-Florent to Ostriconi. While sections are relatively easy, the full trek requires good physical condition, proper gear, and careful planning, as water sources are scarce and shade is limited. A popular shorter hike is the approximately 1-hour walk between Plage du Lotu and Plage de Saleccia.

The Agriates' Pristine Beaches: A Coastal Paradise

The true jewels of the Désert des Agriates are its world-renowned beaches, celebrated for their untouched beauty, powdery white sand, and crystal-clear turquoise waters. Unlike more developed beaches such as Palombaggia Beach or Santa Giulia Beach, the Agriates' shores maintain a wild, unspoiled character.

Plage de Saleccia

Often hailed as one of Corsica's most beautiful beaches, Plage de Saleccia is a stunning crescent of fine white sand backed by a fragrant pine forest. Its shallow, luminous waters are perfect for swimming and snorkeling. Despite its remote location, a small beach bar/restaurant often operates here during peak season, offering refreshments and light meals.

Plage du Lotu (Lotu Beach)

Closer to Saint-Florent and the main boat shuttle drop-off point, Plage du Lotu is another exquisite beach. Similar in beauty to Saleccia, it features equally dazzling sand and sea. From Lotu, a well-marked path leads to Saleccia, making it an ideal starting point for a coastal stroll. Lotu often has more basic facilities, including a popular "paillote" (beach hut) serving food and drinks.

Beyond these two famous spots, numerous smaller, more secluded coves and inlets can be discovered along the Agriates coastline by those exploring by boat or on longer hikes, offering even greater solitude.

Activities and Exploration

  • Hiking:Explore the Sentier des Douaniers for breathtaking coastal views. Short walks between beaches are also rewarding.
  • Swimming & Snorkeling:The exceptionally clear waters are ideal for a refreshing dip and observing marine life.
  • Photography:Capture the dramatic contrasts of the maquis, the pristine beaches, and the vibrant sea.
  • Wildlife Spotting:Keep an eye out for Corsican fauna, including various bird species and tortoises.
  • Boat Trips:Beyond shuttle services, consider a private boat trip to discover hidden bays and enjoy the coastline from a different perspective, perhaps even venturing towards the wild northern tip of Cap Corse.

Tips for Visiting the Désert des Agriates

To ensure a safe and enjoyable visit to this wild corner of Corsica, keep the following practical advice in mind:

  • Best Time to Visit:Spring (May-June) and early autumn (September-October) offer pleasant temperatures, fewer crowds, and lush landscapes. Summer (July-August) can be very hot, and beaches will be busier.
  • What to Bring:
    • Plenty of Water:Essential, especially if hiking or driving the 4x4 track.
    • Sun Protection:Hat, sunglasses, high-factor sunscreen are crucial as shade is limited.
    • Sturdy Footwear:For hiking or navigating the rocky tracks.
    • Food:While some beaches have seasonal kiosks, it's wise to pack snacks or a picnic.
    • Swimwear & Towel:For enjoying the beautiful waters.
    • Camera:To capture the stunning scenery.
  • Respect the Environment:The Agriates is a protected area. Please take all your rubbish with you, stay on marked paths, and be extremely vigilant about fire safety, especially during dry periods.
  • Safety:Inform someone of your plans if undertaking a long hike. Be aware that services are minimal, and medical help can be far away.
  • Accommodation:There are no hotels or campsites within the Agriates itself. Visitors typically stay in nearby towns like Saint-Florent or further afield in cities like Ajaccio, making day trips to the area.

Beyond the Agriates: Nearby Corsican Gems

While the Désert des Agriates is a destination in itself, its proximity to other unique Corsican sites allows for broader exploration. To the north, the wild and dramatic peninsula of Cap Corse offers a completely different coastal experience with its picturesque villages and rugged cliffs. South of Saint-Florent, you can explore the charming port town itself, or even consider a longer journey to the dramatic clifftop town of Bonifacio in the far south, which offers boat trips to the enchanting Lavezzi islands.

Whether you choose the adventurous 4x4 route, a relaxing boat trip, or an invigorating hike, the Désert des Agriates promises an unforgettable encounter with Corsica's wild, untamed spirit. Its pristine beaches and dramatic landscapes are a testament to the island's incredible natural beauty, offering a perfect escape for those seeking solitude and breathtaking scenery.